1990 honda goldwing 1500
Why does the right light switch inside my car feel very warm when I touch it?
2023.03.25 07:53 MyNameIsMattYeah Why does the right light switch inside my car feel very warm when I touch it?
Geez...problems after problems after problems with my current car.
Let me summarize:
I own a 2007 Honda Accord. Several times in the past, when I would start driving my car, after it had been parked outside for a while in the cold weather here in Minnesota, the brake pedal would literally "freeze". It would not budge at all when I would push my foot against it. This would all happen while my car was still driving. I was so lucky that I did not hit any incoming cars on the road because this scenario has previously occurred with my car crossing intersections at red lights. Only after 3-5 attempts of trying to push down the brake pedal, did the brake pedal finally move down.
The most recent incident occurred a few days ago at my apartment parking lot. I left my car sitting outside in the cold weather here in Minnesota. A few hours later, I went outside, and I drove off in my car. Right away, my brake pedal was freezing again. After 2-5 attempts of the brake pedal not going down when pushing my foot against it, I turned my emergency brake on. Still, my car was not stopping. I then tried pressing my brake pedal again, and finally...It went down, and my car stopped. My emergency brake pedal started working again also. Since this was happening it my apartment parking lot, I was driving very slow...But, there were many cars around me, and I was lucky to not hit any of them.
I finally took my car to an auto shop. I had paid the mechanic to do a "full vehicle inspection" on my car, and I also told him about the issue with my brake pedal and emergency brake as well. A few days later, he told me that my car needed some major repairs, and that it would cost around $3500. We decided to have those repairs done.
When I went to pick up my car after the repairs were done, and I was driving out of the auto shop parking lot, I noticed that my brake pedal felt "loose". It definitely moved, that was not the issue this time...It was moving too much. I literally had to press the brake pedal all-the-way down to get my car to stop. Another issue I have been having with my car for quite some time now is...When I would drive my car, I would frequently hear a "squeaking" type noise coming from the underside of my car. Even after the repairs done by the mechanic, that problem was also not gone.
The next day, I brought my car back to the same auto shop. They rechecked my car, and then told me that one of the brake calibers was "faulty", and that was what was causing my brake pedal to feel loose. When they repaired my car the first time, they changed/fixed all of the calibers BESIDES for one of them because at that time it didn't seem to be a problem. However, after re-examining my car, they now see that one untouched caliber needed to be fixed. It was going to cost another $560. They said doing this repair would fix the "loose" feeling brake pedal. In regard to the squeaky noise coming from my car when driving, they said: "We don't know what's causing that squeaky nose, but we want to fix "one thing at a time and the first thing to fix is that one brake caliber".
Things seemed sketchy to me and my stepdad. We told the mechanic that we "needed some time to think about it". He gave us back my car, and I brought my car to another auto shop mechanic (which I will refer to as "auto mechanic #2"), explained what was happening, and he stated that he would do his own inspection to determine why my brake pedal was feeling loose and what was causing the squeaky noise.
The next day, auto mechanic #2 called us back. He stated that he did a thorough inspection of the car, and that my brakes were completely fine. There were no problems with any of the brake calibers, even though the first auto mechanic stated that one of them still needed to be fixed.
However, auto mechanic #2 stated that he found some other major problem with my car or its engine, and that some repairs would need to be done. It would cost $1500. My stepdad and I stated that was fine, so mechanic #2 did the repairs.
I just got my car back tonight. The brake pedal is still feeling "loose", even though auto mechanic #2 stated that all of the brake calibers were fine and that nothing was wrong with my brakes.
However, there is a new problem that I am now finding out. When I touch the right light switch to turn the light on inside my car, the light switch feels very warm. I have never experienced this before.
My question for you: Why does my car's right light switch feel very warm when I touch it?
submitted by MyNameIsMattYeah to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
Let me summarize:
I own a 2007 Honda Accord. Several times in the past, when I would start driving my car, after it had been parked outside for a while in the cold weather here in Minnesota, the brake pedal would literally "freeze". It would not budge at all when I would push my foot against it. This would all happen while my car was still driving. I was so lucky that I did not hit any incoming cars on the road because this scenario has previously occurred with my car crossing intersections at red lights. Only after 3-5 attempts of trying to push down the brake pedal, did the brake pedal finally move down.
The most recent incident occurred a few days ago at my apartment parking lot. I left my car sitting outside in the cold weather here in Minnesota. A few hours later, I went outside, and I drove off in my car. Right away, my brake pedal was freezing again. After 2-5 attempts of the brake pedal not going down when pushing my foot against it, I turned my emergency brake on. Still, my car was not stopping. I then tried pressing my brake pedal again, and finally...It went down, and my car stopped. My emergency brake pedal started working again also. Since this was happening it my apartment parking lot, I was driving very slow...But, there were many cars around me, and I was lucky to not hit any of them.
I finally took my car to an auto shop. I had paid the mechanic to do a "full vehicle inspection" on my car, and I also told him about the issue with my brake pedal and emergency brake as well. A few days later, he told me that my car needed some major repairs, and that it would cost around $3500. We decided to have those repairs done.
When I went to pick up my car after the repairs were done, and I was driving out of the auto shop parking lot, I noticed that my brake pedal felt "loose". It definitely moved, that was not the issue this time...It was moving too much. I literally had to press the brake pedal all-the-way down to get my car to stop. Another issue I have been having with my car for quite some time now is...When I would drive my car, I would frequently hear a "squeaking" type noise coming from the underside of my car. Even after the repairs done by the mechanic, that problem was also not gone.
The next day, I brought my car back to the same auto shop. They rechecked my car, and then told me that one of the brake calibers was "faulty", and that was what was causing my brake pedal to feel loose. When they repaired my car the first time, they changed/fixed all of the calibers BESIDES for one of them because at that time it didn't seem to be a problem. However, after re-examining my car, they now see that one untouched caliber needed to be fixed. It was going to cost another $560. They said doing this repair would fix the "loose" feeling brake pedal. In regard to the squeaky noise coming from my car when driving, they said: "We don't know what's causing that squeaky nose, but we want to fix "one thing at a time and the first thing to fix is that one brake caliber".
Things seemed sketchy to me and my stepdad. We told the mechanic that we "needed some time to think about it". He gave us back my car, and I brought my car to another auto shop mechanic (which I will refer to as "auto mechanic #2"), explained what was happening, and he stated that he would do his own inspection to determine why my brake pedal was feeling loose and what was causing the squeaky noise.
The next day, auto mechanic #2 called us back. He stated that he did a thorough inspection of the car, and that my brakes were completely fine. There were no problems with any of the brake calibers, even though the first auto mechanic stated that one of them still needed to be fixed.
However, auto mechanic #2 stated that he found some other major problem with my car or its engine, and that some repairs would need to be done. It would cost $1500. My stepdad and I stated that was fine, so mechanic #2 did the repairs.
I just got my car back tonight. The brake pedal is still feeling "loose", even though auto mechanic #2 stated that all of the brake calibers were fine and that nothing was wrong with my brakes.
However, there is a new problem that I am now finding out. When I touch the right light switch to turn the light on inside my car, the light switch feels very warm. I have never experienced this before.
My question for you: Why does my car's right light switch feel very warm when I touch it?
2023.03.25 07:42 MyNameIsMattYeah Why does one of the light switches in my car feel very hot when I touch it?
Geez...problems after problems after problems with my current car.
Let me summarize:
I own a 2007 Honda Accord. Several times in the past, when I would start driving my car, after it had been parked outside for a while in the cold weather here in Minnesota, the brake pedal would literally "freeze". It would not budge at all when I would push my foot against it. This would all happen while my car was still driving. I was so lucky that I did not hit any incoming cars on the road because this scenario has previously occurred with my car crossing intersections at red lights. Only after 3-5 attempts of trying to push down the brake pedal, did the brake pedal finally move down.
The most recent incident occurred a few days ago at my apartment parking lot. I left my car sitting outside in the cold weather here in Minnesota. A few hours later, I went outside, and I drove off in my car. Right away, my brake pedal was freezing again. After 2-5 attempts of the brake pedal not going down when pushing my foot against it, I turned my emergency brake on. Still, my car was not stopping. I then tried pressing my brake pedal again, and finally...It went down, and my car stopped. My emergency brake pedal started working again also. Since this was happening it my apartment parking lot, I was driving very slow...But, there were many cars around me, and I was lucky to not hit any of them.
I finally took my car to an auto shop. I had paid the mechanic to do a "full vehicle inspection" on my car, and I also told him about the issue with my brake pedal and emergency brake as well. A few days later, he told me that my car needed some major repairs, and that it would cost around $3500. We decided to have those repairs done.
When I went to pick up my car after the repairs were done, and I was driving out of the auto shop parking lot, I noticed that my brake pedal felt "loose". It definitely moved, that was not the issue this time...It was moving too much. I literally had to press the brake pedal all-the-way down to get my car to stop. Another issue I have been having with my car for quite some time now is...When I would drive my car, I would frequently hear a "squeaking" type noise coming from the underside of my car. Even after the repairs done by the mechanic, that problem was also not gone.
The next day, I brought my car back to the same auto shop. They rechecked my car, and then told me that one of the brake calibers was "faulty", and that was what was causing my brake pedal to feel loose. When they repaired my car the first time, they changed/fixed all of the calibers BESIDES for one of them because at that time it didn't seem to be a problem. However, after re-examining my car, they now see that one untouched caliber needed to be fixed. It was going to cost another $560. They said doing this repair would fix the "loose" feeling brake pedal. In regard to the squeaky noise coming from my car when driving, they said: "We don't know what's causing that squeaky nose, but we want to fix "one thing at a time and the first thing to fix is that one brake caliber".
Things seemed sketchy to me and my stepdad. We told the mechanic that we "needed some time to think about it". He gave us back my car, and I brought my car to another auto shop mechanic (which I will refer to as "auto mechanic #2"), explained what was happening, and he stated that he would do his own inspection to determine why my brake pedal was feeling loose and what was causing the squeaky noise.
The next day, auto mechanic #2 called us back. He stated that he did a thorough inspection of the car, and that my brakes were completely fine. There were no problems with any of the brake calibers, even though the first auto mechanic stated that one of them still needed to be fixed.
However, auto mechanic #2 stated that he found some other major problem with my car or its engine, and that some repairs would need to be done. It would cost $1500. My stepdad and I stated that was fine, so mechanic #2 did the repairs.
I just got my car back tonight. The brake pedal is still feeling "loose", even though auto mechanic #2 stated that all of the brake calibers were fine and that nothing was wrong with my brakes.
However, there is a new problem that I am now finding out. When I touch the right light switch to turn the light on inside my car, the light switch feels very warm. I have never experienced this before.
My question for you: Why does my car's right light switch feel very warm when I touch it?
submitted by MyNameIsMattYeah to autorepair [link] [comments]
Let me summarize:
I own a 2007 Honda Accord. Several times in the past, when I would start driving my car, after it had been parked outside for a while in the cold weather here in Minnesota, the brake pedal would literally "freeze". It would not budge at all when I would push my foot against it. This would all happen while my car was still driving. I was so lucky that I did not hit any incoming cars on the road because this scenario has previously occurred with my car crossing intersections at red lights. Only after 3-5 attempts of trying to push down the brake pedal, did the brake pedal finally move down.
The most recent incident occurred a few days ago at my apartment parking lot. I left my car sitting outside in the cold weather here in Minnesota. A few hours later, I went outside, and I drove off in my car. Right away, my brake pedal was freezing again. After 2-5 attempts of the brake pedal not going down when pushing my foot against it, I turned my emergency brake on. Still, my car was not stopping. I then tried pressing my brake pedal again, and finally...It went down, and my car stopped. My emergency brake pedal started working again also. Since this was happening it my apartment parking lot, I was driving very slow...But, there were many cars around me, and I was lucky to not hit any of them.
I finally took my car to an auto shop. I had paid the mechanic to do a "full vehicle inspection" on my car, and I also told him about the issue with my brake pedal and emergency brake as well. A few days later, he told me that my car needed some major repairs, and that it would cost around $3500. We decided to have those repairs done.
When I went to pick up my car after the repairs were done, and I was driving out of the auto shop parking lot, I noticed that my brake pedal felt "loose". It definitely moved, that was not the issue this time...It was moving too much. I literally had to press the brake pedal all-the-way down to get my car to stop. Another issue I have been having with my car for quite some time now is...When I would drive my car, I would frequently hear a "squeaking" type noise coming from the underside of my car. Even after the repairs done by the mechanic, that problem was also not gone.
The next day, I brought my car back to the same auto shop. They rechecked my car, and then told me that one of the brake calibers was "faulty", and that was what was causing my brake pedal to feel loose. When they repaired my car the first time, they changed/fixed all of the calibers BESIDES for one of them because at that time it didn't seem to be a problem. However, after re-examining my car, they now see that one untouched caliber needed to be fixed. It was going to cost another $560. They said doing this repair would fix the "loose" feeling brake pedal. In regard to the squeaky noise coming from my car when driving, they said: "We don't know what's causing that squeaky nose, but we want to fix "one thing at a time and the first thing to fix is that one brake caliber".
Things seemed sketchy to me and my stepdad. We told the mechanic that we "needed some time to think about it". He gave us back my car, and I brought my car to another auto shop mechanic (which I will refer to as "auto mechanic #2"), explained what was happening, and he stated that he would do his own inspection to determine why my brake pedal was feeling loose and what was causing the squeaky noise.
The next day, auto mechanic #2 called us back. He stated that he did a thorough inspection of the car, and that my brakes were completely fine. There were no problems with any of the brake calibers, even though the first auto mechanic stated that one of them still needed to be fixed.
However, auto mechanic #2 stated that he found some other major problem with my car or its engine, and that some repairs would need to be done. It would cost $1500. My stepdad and I stated that was fine, so mechanic #2 did the repairs.
I just got my car back tonight. The brake pedal is still feeling "loose", even though auto mechanic #2 stated that all of the brake calibers were fine and that nothing was wrong with my brakes.
However, there is a new problem that I am now finding out. When I touch the right light switch to turn the light on inside my car, the light switch feels very warm. I have never experienced this before.
My question for you: Why does my car's right light switch feel very warm when I touch it?
2023.03.25 03:05 sharoldking Alignment Needed??
Hi Mechanic friends!
I have a 2022 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab short bed, and there is some irregular wear on one of my tires. I’m pretty sure this is indicative of an alignment that is not the way it needs to be. I rotate the tires every oil change except the last one, I was told the dealership recommends every other, and I was feeling lazy and figured I’d be okay!
But I noticed some irregular wear on my front driver side tire on the inner side of the tire. I only have 23k miles, is it common for vehicles with this low of mileage to need an alignment?? My last new car, a 2020 Honda Passport seemed fine at 23k miles! Maybe I just got unlucky? Just looking to see if this is normal.
Thanks!
Edit: the irregular wear is in the inner driver side tire, where the inner side of the tire has worn down significantly faster than the other 3 tires. IE down past the wear bars already. Where as the other 3 tires still have an even west pattern compared to the other tree present on each tire.
submitted by sharoldking to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
I have a 2022 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab short bed, and there is some irregular wear on one of my tires. I’m pretty sure this is indicative of an alignment that is not the way it needs to be. I rotate the tires every oil change except the last one, I was told the dealership recommends every other, and I was feeling lazy and figured I’d be okay!
But I noticed some irregular wear on my front driver side tire on the inner side of the tire. I only have 23k miles, is it common for vehicles with this low of mileage to need an alignment?? My last new car, a 2020 Honda Passport seemed fine at 23k miles! Maybe I just got unlucky? Just looking to see if this is normal.
Thanks!
Edit: the irregular wear is in the inner driver side tire, where the inner side of the tire has worn down significantly faster than the other 3 tires. IE down past the wear bars already. Where as the other 3 tires still have an even west pattern compared to the other tree present on each tire.
2023.03.25 02:25 acs2020 This guide shows which car and year to avoid
 | submitted by acs2020 to Lexus [link] [comments] |
2023.03.25 01:35 Ellykos Jerk when driving without the foot on the accelerator (parking lot, street, etc.)
Hi,
When driving in first or second gear in a parking lot or on my street, my manual honda civic 2012 EX will sometimes start to accelerate on its own going up to 1500 RPM and 4 or 5 seconds after will start to slow down to 750 RPM for no reason. Driving slowly is really unpleasant, as the car have a lot of jerk because of this.
I've tried it in a lot of spot and it doesn't seem to be because of the road.
Any idea what could cause this ?
submitted by Ellykos to MechanicAdvice [link] [comments]
When driving in first or second gear in a parking lot or on my street, my manual honda civic 2012 EX will sometimes start to accelerate on its own going up to 1500 RPM and 4 or 5 seconds after will start to slow down to 750 RPM for no reason. Driving slowly is really unpleasant, as the car have a lot of jerk because of this.
I've tried it in a lot of spot and it doesn't seem to be because of the road.
Any idea what could cause this ?
2023.03.25 01:05 RocketshipMico Our German car made the list.
 | Do you guys think the RS falls into this category? I mean it is a German made car. submitted by RocketshipMico to FocusRS [link] [comments] Your thoughts? |
2023.03.24 23:45 jamamez Thoughts on the Mazda 3 being unreliable?
 | submitted by jamamez to mazda3 [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 22:25 JenVixen420 This guide shows which car and year to avoid
| | submitted by JenVixen420 to u/JenVixen420 [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 22:17 wingwraith What’s up with the ‘19 Ascent?
| | submitted by wingwraith to SubaruAscent [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 22:07 beordgames Lightweight Overland Trailer Builds
I love to see and get some input on some lightweight overland trailer set ups. I currently drive a Honda Crosstour and on paper in can pull 1500 lbs, but I'd like to try and keep the setup under like 800 without gear. I'd like to have the ability to mount a RTT on it. Basically since I don't have a truck or SUV or anything YET, I want to have a rig that can grow with me and I feel like a trailer might be the answer? Open to input from you guys on other options as well 👍🏻
submitted by beordgames to overlanding [link] [comments]
2023.03.24 21:11 Shahid9s Used Cars to Avoid
 | submitted by Shahid9s to Islam_and_Muslims [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 20:20 ninjafork This guide shows which car and year to avoid
| | submitted by ninjafork to FocusST [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 19:59 RyantheRaindrop My GTI Lite is on there, the GTI as well but I noticed one of the variants is mysteriously missing from the list... Guess I know what I should upgrade to!!!
| | submitted by RyantheRaindrop to Golf_R [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 17:45 AgentOfChaos-uk A UK version of this would be good. I wonder how many are true for cars on this fair isle?
 | submitted by AgentOfChaos-uk to CarTalkUK [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 17:26 Woodworkin101 This guide shows which car and year to avoid. Notice Toyota isn’t even on here.
| | submitted by Woodworkin101 to ToyotaHighlander [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 17:13 barftitsmcgee This guide shows which car and year to avoid
| | submitted by barftitsmcgee to u/barftitsmcgee [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 16:51 Pretend_Pudding_2789 Another Triumph ADV or Something Else for Year Round Riding - Maybe Light Dirt
I'm currently riding my first ADV bike, a '18 Triumph Tiger 1200 XRT. Having owned all types of bikes, I'm pleasantly finding the ADV segment to be the most capable bike out there (as compared to my Goldwing and Tuono V4). Seeing the sign "Pavement Ends" is pretty cool.
I ride year round (down to 30 F), and find (effective) fairing and windscreens are a must. Factory heated grips add huge convenience, heated seat (or the option to add) are a real nicey.
I'd like to take the metal panniers and top case from the Tiger to the new bike. These are $1500+, and I like the locking, weatherproof and ease of use (as compared to soft bags).
I need a lighter weight bike (less than 500 # wet), and one that is not top heavy, and that is where the Tiger fails badly.
Bikes I'm considering, upright riding positions and having fairings/windscreens:
Any thoughts?
submitted by Pretend_Pudding_2789 to SuggestAMotorcycle [link] [comments]
I ride year round (down to 30 F), and find (effective) fairing and windscreens are a must. Factory heated grips add huge convenience, heated seat (or the option to add) are a real nicey.
I'd like to take the metal panniers and top case from the Tiger to the new bike. These are $1500+, and I like the locking, weatherproof and ease of use (as compared to soft bags).
I need a lighter weight bike (less than 500 # wet), and one that is not top heavy, and that is where the Tiger fails badly.
Bikes I'm considering, upright riding positions and having fairings/windscreens:
- Tiger 900 GT Pro - familiar brand, panniers fit, heated grips/seat ,light off-road capable with 80/20s or 90/10s
- Tracer 9 GT - unknown - Yamaha site is lacking details, other than the dash that is absolutely ridiculous looking. Not even close to and ADV bike - stays on all asphalt? Panniers don't fit?
- Multistrada V2S - everything is unknown about this bike. Ducati only accessories (=pricey)?
Any thoughts?
2023.03.24 15:55 mandrews03 This guide shows which car and year to avoid
| | submitted by mandrews03 to BroncoSport [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 15:46 richcournoyer Oh great! This guide shows which car and year to avoid
| | submitted by richcournoyer to MachE [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 15:42 dontlietomeagain This list of cars with "Worse than Average Reliability" is pretty specific with the models and years. Is it accurate, for those that own these model Mercedes? Seems like mostly later model years too which seems kinna sad.
 | submitted by dontlietomeagain to mercedes_benz [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 15:35 saucytech Damn it feels good not to be anywhere on this list.
 | submitted by saucytech to ToyotaTacoma [link] [comments] |
2023.03.24 15:32 dunkinnutsdo We have reliable vehicles
 | submitted by dunkinnutsdo to WRX [link] [comments] |